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In search of Greenwich’s best… cupcake

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Cupcakes are still having their moment in the spotlight. An edible glitter-covered fifteen minutes of fame. Some might argue that they’ve had their time and we should move onto something else but they are a lot of options in Greenwich. But which are best? I went for a wander around Greenwich, trying the tastiest cupcakes I could find, all in the name of research.

Monsoon, Turnpin Lane. Strawberry. £1.95.
The smallest of the bunch, and actually one of my favourites. But only because I really like Strawberry Angel Delight and that’s exactly what the frosting on this cake tasted like. I was bouncing off the walls after trying this one. It was definitely the sweetest I tried, which is impressive given its petite stature.

Real Baking Company, Greenwich Market. Red Velvet. £2.50.
It’s HUGE! Gosh, that’s one heck of a cupcake. The Real Baking Company really know how to make their cakes look good. I had no complaints with this cupcake, although the frosting was very buttery and there was a lot of it. That’s what you want from a cupcake, isn’t it? If you don’t want frosting on your cake, then you buy a brownie.

Rhode’s, College Approach. Lemon. £2.75.
Oooh, that’s a pricey cupcake. But hello, what’s the inside it? Lemon curd! AND a candied lemon peel decoration on top of the frosting (actually looked nicer than it tasted, bluergh). This was the fanciest of the cupcakes that I tried. And it’s nice to see the Rhodes staff smiling a little more after my chocolate brownie adventures.

Ruby Tuesdays, Greenwich Market. Vegan raspberry and chocolate. £2.30.
WOW. If there wasn’t a sign on Ruby’s Greenwich Market stall telling me this cupcake was vegan, I’d never have known. It was rich and chocolatey, with a perfect swirl of raspberry frosting. Actually, that’s probably the best cupcake frosting I’ve ever had the pleasure of getting all over my face.

Others: A vanilla cupcake from Red Door cafe (£2.65) was my least favourite. Admittedly I visited quite late on a Sunday afternoon but the sponge was a little dry and frosting hard. I wanted to try Black Vanilla but I watched two people arrive after me and get served before me so I left, cupcakeless.

And the winner is...

Ruby Tuesdays is definitely the winner for me. Not only was the cake the tastiest I tried last week, but the service was really friendly as well. I love that her cakes are suitable for special diets. She’s a brilliant addition to Greenwich Market. If the queue for her offerings is too busy, head to the Real Baking Company, or around the corner to Rhodes.

In search of Greenwich’s best… Latte

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I know there’s nothing more quintessentially British than a cup of tea, but these days as you walk through Greenwich, you’re more likely to come across people clutching a coffee. With a seemingly ever growing menu of coffee options available, Greenwich.co.uk picked the classic caffè latte for the latest in its series of taste tests.

Buenos Aires Café
Cost of a latte to go: £2.30 (86 Royal Hill, SE10 8RT)

The only tourists you’ll ever see in Buenos Aires would be very lost ones. Located at the top of Royal Hill, it’s very popular with locals and is busy throughout the day, particularly in the morning after the school run. If you want to linger, there’s several tables inside and out, and a few leather sofas.

The key to a successful latte is, of course, the milk, and they certainly got it right here. The latte was perfect, in my opinion. The coffee was just on the right side of strong, and the froth on the top provided a good amount of milky goodness, but not too much.  This may have been the most expensive latte in my taste test, but it was also the best.

L’Artisan
Cost of a latte to go: £1.95 (93 Trafalgar Road, SE10 9TS)

This tiny café aims to replicate a French café in East Greenwich, just a few steps away from the Arches Leisure Centre. When I say tiny, I mean tiny—there are only seven seats in the café, and not a lot of space beyond that. But what it lacks in space, it makes up for in taste.

The latte I had was very French, as you might expect, in that it was very strong. There was a decent amount of froth on the top, but it didn’t do much to lessen the strength of the coffee. But given that it was pouring rain on the day I had it - that statement pretty much sums up our spring - it was just the sort of boost I needed to get me through the afternoon.

L’Artisan may be small, but it packs a big latte punch.

Paul Rhodes
Cost of a take away latte: £2 small/£2.20 large (37 King William Walk, SE10 9HU)

It would be fair to say that Rhodes is neither an undiscovered gem nor free from tourists. But given the years we lived without a decent - or, in fact, any - bakery in west Greenwich, now that we have one, I want to talk about it as much as possible. (They also have a shop in Notting Hill now, for those who are impressed by north London, though I’m not one of them. Go South London!)

On yet another dreary wet morning, I was there for the latte and was not disappointed. It had a good ratio of milky froth to coffee and the coffee itself was strong without being overpowering. Even the small size is more generous than the others tasted. Rhodes uses Union Coffee, a specialty artisan roaster who trades directly with coffee farmers, ensuring fairer prices for the farmers. Rhodes also uses a biodegradable insulated coffee cup and lid, which is fully compostable, the first of its kind in the UK.

Will I be back? Absolutely, though I won’t be back just for the coffee.  On my rainy morning, the almond croissant I enjoyed went a long way to making my day better.

Red Door
Cost of a take away latte: £1.80 (10 Turnpin Lane, SE10 9JA)

Any discussion about Greenwich coffee has to include Red Door on Turnpin Lane. The quirky cafe, shop and gallery serves up Monmouth Coffee, the best coffee in London in my opinion, if not the world. Add to the mix the charming owners and you’ve got a winner.

It is a busy place. Even in the mid-afternoon, when I visited, I had to wait for a bit to get my caffeine fix. But I was more than happy to bide my time, with the classical music on the stereo and the interesting art on the walls.

The latte, as expected, was delicious due to its source material of Monmouth Coffee. Although this is the type of place where I think they’d much prefer that you stop and smell the coffee, I was able to get my latte to go. If latte is not your thing, they also offer the standard hot drinks of espresso, Americano, cappuccino and tea.

Red Door is unique and that’s what makes it special. The people who scurry past to get to a chain coffee house don’t know what they’re missing. Red Door might not be the most conventional coffee house you’ve ever been to, but it certainly is one of the most memorable.

Final Verdict:

Buenos Aires had the best take away lattes, but all of the establishments had excellent reasons to visit. I have no doubt that I will return to all of them very soon, for either a coffee to go or a cake on a sofa.

Where do you think does the best latte in Greenwich? Use the comments box below to let us know...

In search of Greenwich’s best… burgers

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Now Byron have finally opened in Greenwich, a search for the best burger in town was on the cards (tough gig, I know). Luckily, bars and restaurants in Greenwich offer a tasty burger indeed. Here are three of the top restaurants and a little look at how their cheeseburgers compare.

Byron

I've been not all that patiently waiting for them to open and I'm thrilled they have. My burger (pictured below) was very slightly overdone, as was the service - so keen were they to impress at their soft launch, they told my dining companion the dessert options while I was still eating my burger. The loitering got a little much after a while, but I'm hoping it's just soft launch teething problems.

I do love their burgers. And I love the American cheese option. You can eat well for a little over a tenner and don't even get me started on those courgette fries. They're sprinkled with breadcrumbs and magic.

The Guildford Arms

This was actually my first trip to the Guildford Arms and it's a cute, quiet place, tucked away in Guildford Grove. The hefty burger was made from chuck beef and very delicately flavoured with worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard and shallots

The burger itself was impressively sized for less than ten quid but came in a homemade bun that was a bit small for my liking.

I'm also never going to be convinced that tarragon mayo works with beef. Excellent pickle action, though - I'm all about slices, not wedges. But the fish and chips my companion had? That looked divine and was giving me serious pangs of lunch envy. Some of the best batter action this side of the river. I'll go back for lunch (it's £12 for two courses and £14 for three - just try and stop me), but the burger might not be my first choice.

The Old Brewery

Oh yes. This was a tasty, tasty burger. Probably my favourite, actually. It was pricy - £10.75 and an extra £1 for cheese. And erm... an extra quid for pulled pork as well. I couldn't resist. I had to. The burger is a little soggy and difficult to eat, but I don't care because it was perfectly cooked to medium and tasted fantastic.

Alas, there's no photograph because they took 'romantic' lights to a whole new level. We basically ate in the dark. Still, that's not going to stop me from coming back for a burger. I'll just pop in during the day so I can actually see.

And the rest? Greenwich Union's is tasty but very pricy once you factor in that they ask an extra £2.50 for cheddar (seriously GU dudes, that's not cool). Rivington's is always a fine option - the burger is tasty but it's their chips and that smoky ketchup that will keep a smile on your face but they've got so much choice on the menu you're likely to pick something else (probably roast potato based).

As for GBK... well they're not entirely terrible are they? But with so many decent options locally, I can't help think they're punching above their weight a little now.

The verdict? If you fancy a pint with your burger, go to the Old Brewery. If you have kids or like milkshakes head to Byron. Lunchtime? Go to the Guildford Arms for their lunchtime menu.

What do you think? What's the best burger you've had in Greenwich?

Goddard’s Pies to return to Greenwich town centre

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GODDARD's Pies is to return to Greenwich with the opening of a new shop.

The family business's new shop will be in King William Walk, replacing Greenwich Inc's Great British Fish & Chip shop.

Goddard's was established in Deptford by Alfred Goddard in 1890 and then for many years they had a shop in Greenwich Church Street.

Kane Goddard of Goddard's Pies told Greenwich.co.uk: "We've been away far too long and we look forward to seeing some familiar faces and lots of new ones in our pieshop. 2012 is an exciting year for many reasons and we can't wait to re-establish ourselves within the Greenwich community."

The venue for the business is an 18th century pub, originally known as the Cricketers, and has had various incarnations in recent years such as the W Lounge, Powder Monkey and Lani Tiki.

The shop should open for business in April after a refit that's expected to take around three weeks to complete.

In search of Greenwich’s best… Hot Chocolate

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It's the drink Britain has never really warmed to...hot chocolate. We've always been a nation of tea lovers, only lately becoming coffee fanatics thanks to the chains that dot every high street, including Greenwich. But hot chocolate? That's a bit French, isn't it?

Yet it is amazing just how many secret hot choc lovers are out there. And even the most macho among us are not afraid to ask for some extra marshallows on top. I went in search of SE10's champion hot chocolate for Greenwich.co.uk and here's what I found...

Costa (inside Waterstones), Greenwich Church Street

Situated upstairs at Waterstone's, Costa takes up a large corner of the first floor, facing Greenwich Church Street. Like any chain, the turnover of staff is rapid, leading to impersonal service. So it proved when I popped in on an arctic-like Thursday morning, craving a relaxing hot choc. Although I was in Greenwich, I could have been at Euston Station, Heathrow or any other cloned Costa outlet.

The relaxing part soon went kaput too when I ordered a small £2.20 hot choc. "Would you like whipped cream with it?" I was asked. "Yes, please." Within a a few seconds, the drink in a tall glass was placed in front of me at the counter. "That'll be £2.55," said the manager. "Shouldn't it be £2.20?" I questioned, surprised. "You wanted cream and that's 35p extra!" As he hadn't mentioned the extra charge when offering it to me - very naughty, I say - I said I didn't want it, and he took it away and made one without cream. Not a good start. I didn't like it served in a glass, either. For me, glasses should be used for cold drinks only.

"Where's your chocolate from?" I then asked. "Head office, they send it to us," the manager replied. "No, which country?" Blankly, he looked at me before guessing an answer...."I don't know, Belgium maybe?" The drink just wasn't worth it either, lacking depth and flavour, the taste forgotten as I walked down the stairs. They also do medium and large sizes -£2.50/£2.70 (memo to Waterstone's: replace the carpet, guys...it's badly torn in places and having strips of black tape over parts of it is ugly. What'll the Queen think if she pops in for the latest Katie Price blockbuster in April?)

Red Door Cafe, Turnpin Lane

Situated in Turnpin Lane, I have to admit I have a soft spot for this quirky little gem. I follow owner Kate Hill-Smith on twitter (@katereddoor) and you can tell from her chatty tweets that it's a labour of love, posting photos of scrummy cakes, new nic nacs on the glass shelves, and before and after shots of her partner Edward's haircut.

She says that "people come in for coffee, and a bit of cake and some cheek." But what about the hot chocolate? It's wow excellent. It turns out to be Monbana Hot Chocolate from France, highly rated on the internet, with cocoa beans from the Ivory Coast and S America. It's smooth, and moreish. I sip it slowly, sitting downstairs at the back of the cafe on a two seater sofa among an eclectic mix of furniture: a mahogany plant stand with a skull on top, a row of two old-style cinema seats rescued by Kate's mum from a Plymouth skip, and a couple of glass tables.

The brick walls are painted red and white. There are red chili lights lit up. To my left, sitting on a wooden bench with a rug on top, is a mysterious young foreign women reading a book by Swedish crime author Hakan Nesser, her feet stretched out on the bottom step. Edward is running the show today, sometimes wearing the bemused look of an English lecturer at a red brick university. I love the place - they've also just installed wifi - as there's something unique about it. It's even more special as their hot choc rocks. It costs £2, larger cup £2.20.

National Maritime Museum Cafe

Greenwich park looks particularly stunning as I walk along to the cafe, blown away by the mixture of cold, cutting wind, brilliant blue skies, naked trees and greenery. I arrive just after 1pm and the cafe is rammed. There's the usual mix of plummy yummy mummies with newborns and space age pushchairs, students glued to their smart phones and smiley grandparents on outings with relatives. And there's the obligatory crying baby, too. (I don't mind, I married a former baby).

There's a five minute queue, but I know the wait will be worth it. I've already tweeted that I really, really like their hot choc. It comes one size only, served in a mug (love that!), and costs £2.25. Or £2.02 if you're a National Maritime Museum member and use your 10 per cent discount. It is worth it (every penny), frothy on top with a lovely silky, chocalatey flavour. London-based Union Hand-Roasted coffee seems to be taking over Greenwich, and their chocolate will soon follow. This special one is their "thinking chocolate", using cocoa from a growers' co-operative in Ghana.

The sun is streaming through the huge windows, and the cafe quickly empties after the lunchtime rush. The staff are special here too, always very jolly and keen. There's also free wifi for two hours with no strings attached (unlike at Cafe Rouge). "Are you finished?" asks the young waitress, looking at my empty mug. Sadly, I have to confirm that I am.

Verdict

I reckon the hot chocolate at the NMM Cafe is the Daddy, followed closely by Red Door's offering. Costa? It trails way, way behind...even if they do serve marshmallows (for an extra 35p, mind you).

You can follow Benb111 on Twitter for news and pictures from around Greenwich. Benb111 is supporting Old Brewery Head Chef Dan Doherty, who is running the London Marathon for Sense, the brilliant deafblind charity. Please back Dan: justgiving.com/Dan-Doherty

Champagne bar on ice but gelateria to open this week

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PLANS to open a new champagne bar in Greenwich town centre have been put on ice but the owners say they remain "committed" to the concept.

Black Vanilla Champagne Bar & Gelateria planned to open in College Approach but the council turned down their application for a premises license.

The owners announced they would appeal against the decision and gathered almost 150 signatures on a petition of support, but no appeal was lodged before the deadline expired last week.

After a series of delays to the opening, the owners say the new ground floor gelateria will open this week while plans for a fresh premises licence application are prepared. A spokesperson told Greenwich.co.uk:

"Black Vanilla SE10 will be opening for business on Tuesday 24 January 2012 at 5 College Approach. Following Greenwich Council's decision not to grant them an alcohol licence, the owners have decided to proceed in opening without alcohol on the menu for the time being.

"Black Vanilla remains committed to Greenwich and their original concept, and will be exploring all options to deliver a full service in the future."

Black Vanilla also run a gelateria and "boutique bakery" in Blackheath.

Guy Awford’s Food Column: April

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The early spring is a great time for eating seafood. Fish and shellfish are in peak condition, and the warmer weather makes us crave something light and simple. Top of the list for the spring must be wild salmon and wild sea bass. These are expensive ingredients, so due care and attention is needed. If you are poaching wild salmon cook at a gentle heat, around 70C, until it is cooked to your liking. Boiling it at 100C will do little to enhance the qualities of this beautiful fish.

Similarly when pan frying wild sea bass the trick is to get a crispy golden skin without drying out the delicate flesh. First score the fillet by cutting 3 shallow slashes through the skin and just into the flesh. This will help to keep the fillet flat during cooking. The next step is to dry the skin. You want the skin to fry in the oil, not stew in its own juices. That means there should be no moisture at all on the skin. Pat it dry with absorbent kitchen paper and then lay it onto a fresh piece of kitchen paper whilst you heat the pan (use a non-stick pan). Get the pan fairly hot then add just enough oil to cover the base. Let it heat then season with fine salt. Turn the heat to medium. Gently lay the fish into the pan, letting it fall away from you (in case any oil splashes out). Press down firmly with a fish slice. Cook undisturbed for 3 minutes until the skin becomes crisp and golden. Don't touch it, fuss over it, or in any way fiddle with it. Let it form a crust.

Now turn the fish over, turn the heat to low and cook for 2 minutes. Your fish will be crispy and moist.

Seasonal Ingredients

Vegetables:         Watercress, Wild Garlic Leaf, Spring Onion, Morel, Jersey Royals
Fish:                       Sea Bass, Oysters, Cockles, Wild Salmon, Sardine
Meat:                     Lamb, Venison

Guy Awford’s Food Column: March

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Scottish lobsters are renowned for their firm, plump flesh, and delicate sweet flavour. At their peak right now they are available from The Fishmonger on Circus Street. Be warned though, they are very expensive.

Choose lively lobsters that are between 1Ib and 3 Ib. Keep them covered with damp newspaper and leave them in a cool, dark place. Killing a live lobster can be upsetting, so buying a freshly cooked one from a good source is a sensible solution. If you do want to cook it yourself place the lobster in the freezer for 20 minutes. This will put it to sleep. Then plunge it into a large pot of rapidly boiling water.

Having spent so lavishly on the lobster you may as well splurge on the wine; Daniel, from The Theatre of Wine, recommends a great Burgundy, such as a Meursault or perhaps a Puligny-Montrachet.

The recipe below is a simplified version of a starter from my new restaurant – Guy Awford at the Guildford.

Scottish Lobster & Avocado Cocktail with Cos, Lime & Sweet Paprika – serves 4

  • Freeze the lobster for 20 minutes, then plunge into a large pot of rapidly boiling, well salted, water. Bring the water back to the boil and cook for 10 minutes for the first pound and then 3 minutes for each additional pound.
  • Remove the lobster and plunge into iced water.
  • Mix 2 tablespoon of tomato ketchup with 8 tablespoons of mayonnaise, adding a squeeze of lime juice & 1 finely chopped red chilli.
  • Crack the lobster and remove the flesh, cutting it into bite sized pieces.
  • Peel & slice 2 avocadoes, mix with the lobster, and bind with the sauce.
  • Serve on top of some finely sliced cos, dusting the top with a little sweet paprika.

Wine Suggestion: Domaine Bouzereau, Meursault, Les Grands Charrons, 2008. From the heart of the Cote d’Or in Burgundy this is a wine that balances mouth watering fresh citrus flavours with sensual roasted nut and exotic fruit.

Seasonal Ingredients

Vegetables:         Avocado, Beetroot, Sprouts, Cape Broccoli, Carrots, Celeriac, Jerusalem Artichoke,

Fish:                       Sea Bass, Oysters, Clams, Cockles, Halibut, Lobster, Brill

Fruit & Nuts:      Forced Rhubarb & Outdoor

Meat:                     Vension

Guy Awford’s Food Column: December

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Unless you are planning on eating your Christmas lunch in a restaurant it is highly likely that, come Christmas morning, you will be up early, fretting over a large turkey.  At a time when all you want to do is relax with family and friends, the responsibility for cooking such a large bird can hang like an albatross around your neck, causing stress and apprehension. Well, if that’s the case, maybe I can help.

Your first obstacle is a mental one. Any resentment over your role will inevitably spill out, souring the atmosphere and tainting the food, so you must give yourself willingly and lovingly to the task. Try to relax. Occasionally I get roped into playing golf. If I try too hard, I get uptight, and I’m rubbish. If, however, I take a deep breath, drop my shoulders, and think “who gives a ****”, then more often than not, I hit the ball relatively straight. It’s not an ideal metaphor, but I’m sure you get my point.

The second obstacle is logistics. Can I really cook for all these people? Will it be ready on time? Cooking for a large number of people is pretty much the same as cooking for two; it just takes longer to prepare. Break down your menu into small tasks. List them in the order that you need to tackle them, then methodically work your way through it, giving yourself plenty of time.

Your first job is to make the stuffing, which can be done the day before, as on Christmas morning your priority is cooking the turkey; once that is in the oven all other timings relate to that. I always remove the legs, bone and roll them, and cook them separately. This reduces the cooking time, ensuring the breast meat doesn’t dry out. It’s also a good idea to remove the wishbone, as this makes it much easier to carve. Your butcher should happily do all this for you. Weigh the breast crown and roast for 20 minutes per 500g at 180C, putting the legs in at the same time. Stuff the crown at the neck end, pulling the skin down to hold it in place. Butter and season the turkey, then pop into a preheated oven at 180C.

Now you can turn your attention to the trimmings. For perfect roast potatoes use King Edward or Desiree. Peel, quarter and place into cold water, bring to the boil and cook until a skewer can be pushed through. Drain in a colander, and gently shake to rough up the surfaces. Place them, curved side down, into hot vegetable oil and roast for about an hour, turning every 15 minutes. Whilst they are cooking wrap the chipolatas in bacon and peel the Brussel sprouts. Cutting a cross in the base helps them to cook evenly.

When the turkey is cooked remove from the roasting tray and insert a sharp knife into the thickest part by the wing joint (the juices should run clear, if they still look pink return to the oven for a little longer). Leave to rest for 20 minutes, covered with foil. Whilst it rests, pop the bacon wrapped chipolatas in the oven, cook the sprouts, and make your gravy in the roasting tray.

Have a great Christmas.

Chestnut, Onion & Sage Stuffing

  • Finely dice 1 large onion and simmer in milk for 5 minutes.
  • Process half a loaf of white bread to make coarse breadcrumbs.
  • Stir in the onions, a teaspoon of mustard, a tablespoon of chopped sage, and 250g of roughly chopped cooked chestnuts.
  • Mix in 100g of soft butter & 1 egg. Season to taste.
  • Push the stuffing together and push into the neck cavity.

Vegetables:      Jerusalem Artichokes, Red Cabbage, Celery, Parsnips

Fish:                 Black Bream, Herring, Lobster, Mackerel, Mussels, Native Oysters, Turbot

Fruit & Nuts:      Apples, Pears

Meat:                Partridge, pheasant, Turkey, Mallard

Guy Awford’s Food Column: November

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There is plenty to choose from this month. Game is at its peak, as are mussels, oysters and scallops. In the farmers market root vegetables dominate, begging to be boiled and mashed with plenty of butter and black pepper. Fruit wise, apples, pears and quinces are pretty much it; so pies, tart and crumbles are your best bet.

With the chilly autumn evenings drawing in now is the time to lift the spirits with a rich and satisfying venison casserole. Cooked slowly for an hour or two, its wonderful aroma will fill the house, banishing the winter blues.

The trick to producing a deeply satisfying casserole is gentle cooking, which allows the meat to become tender and the individual flavours to develop and harmonise. Browning the meat first will intensify the flavour and improve the colour. Unlike many dishes reducing the wine first is not necessary, as the slow cooking will do that for you.

Serve the casserole with mashed potatoes, to soak up the rich sauce, or a puree of potato, swede and carrot. For something a little more interesting you could try rosemary infused celeriac mash. Peel and cube a large celeriac and simmer until soft with a tied bunch of rosemary and a few cardamom seeds. Drain thoroughly and remove the rosemary and cardamom. Mash in some butter and season generously.

Venison “Bourguignon” Casserole with Celeriac Mash – serves 4

  • Pre-heat the oven to 160C
  • Season 600g of diced venison and fry in a little oil in a hot pan until golden brown. Cook in batches if necessary.
  • In a large pot sweat 300g of baby onions in butter until they begin to colour.
  • Add 100g of streaky bacon lardons and 15 button mushrooms, which have been cut in half.
  • Cook until browned then stir in a tablespoon of plain flour.
  • Add the venison (and any juices) and 1 tablespoon of tomato puree. Stir to mix it all together.
  • Pour in half a bottle of red wine and enough water to just cover.
  • Bring to the boil and add a bouquet garni of thyme, bay and rosemary.
  • Cover with a lid and cook in the oven for 2 hours – or until tender.

Seasonal Ingredients

Vegetables:     Celeriac, sprouts, carrots, parsnips, turnips, beetroot, red cabbage, pumpkin

Fish:  Mussels, cod, Dover sole, mackerel, oysters, plaice, sea bass, skate, turbot

Fruit & Nuts:  Almonds, apples, brazil nuts, chestnuts, pears, quince, walnuts

Meat:  Partridge, pheasant, pigeon, rabbit, snipe, venison