Now is a great time for cooking game; wild duck, pheasants and venison are at their best. I managed to pick up a dozen rabbits and partridge from Piddinghoe farm shop for Inside restaurant and after a lot of skinning and plucking (thank you Michael) they were ready for cooking. We stuffed the rabbit leg with a rich, sherry soaked Spanish stuffing, and then roasted them until they were golden brown. We roasted the partridge whole with a lot of butter and served with Puy lentils, braised red cabbage and crispy parsnips. When roasting game birds you must take care that the meat doesn’t dry out. So, cook with lots of butter, baste regularly and remove when they are still quite rare. The residual heat will complete the cooking as they rest.

If you are in the mood for some fresh fish Julian at the Fishmongers on Circus Street is particularly excited about wild sea bass and plump diver caught scallops. They are admittedly quite pricey, but for a special treat they are ideal.

Seasonal fruit is not quite so abundant; British berries have all but gone and any strawberries on offer are likely to have made a very long journey indeed. If you want to eat British then apples, pears and quinces are pretty much it. Don’t be discouraged though; there is a great deal that can be rustled up from this humble trio.

For the ultimate comfort food you could use any, or all, of those fruit in a delicious crumble. Just rub 150g of butter into 250g of flour until sandy. Mix in 140g of caster sugar and chill in the fridge. Peel, dice and cook the chosen fruit until soft (but not mushy) in butter sweetened to taste with a little sugar. Top with the crumble mix and bake in a hot oven until the top is golden and the filling is just bubbling through. For a more sophisticated dessert try poaching some pears in an aromatic broth until meltingly soft; once cooled they are fantastic served with a dollop of crème Fraiche or a delicately flavoured ice cream.

Vanilla & Saffron Poached Pears with Ginger Ice Cream

• Peel 4 pears leaving the stalk intact. Cut a slice from the base and carefully scoop out the core. Place straight into lemon water so they don’t discolour.
• Place the pears in a large heavy bottom pot and cover with water.
• Add 250g of caster sugar, a pinch of saffron, 1 vanilla pod, 3 star anise, an inch of ginger, an inch of cinnamon and 3 cloves.
• Bring to the boil and simmer for 20-30 minutes, or until soft – not collapsing.
• Allow to cool in the syrup.
• Serve with crème Fraiche or a scoop of ginger ice cream.

Seasonal Ingredients

Vegetables:    Wild mushrooms, leeks, celeriac, pumpkin, salsify, cabbage, kale, swede

Fruit:               Apples, pears

Fish:               Mussels, native oysters, scallop, sea bass

Meat:              Pheasant, partridge, venison, wild duck

September is a great month for oysters. The warmer summer months have passed, the spawning period is over and the waters are colder. Juicy, plump and spankingly fresh, oysters are at their peak.

Eating oysters is a uniquely invigorating experience. No other food conjures up the essence of the sea as potently. As you take it into your mouth you are hit by a briny rush, it can be quite intoxicating. Its mineral elements are evident and you can clearly taste zinc, calcium, copper and magnesium. This really is food for grownups.

Oysters must be alive when you buy them so buy from a reputable source. I can thoroughly recommend Julian at the fishmongers on Circus Street. His Rock and Fin de Clair oysters are sensational. If you are feeling adventurous you can also buy some Sea Urchins from him, but that’s another column.

Shucking oysters is a bit of an ordeal, but I am sure your fishmonger would be only too happy to help; either by opening them, or with a quick demonstration. You will need a strong oyster knife and a bit of patience. To help preserve the precious juices you must store your oysters on a tray in the refrigerator with the flat side up, keeping them covered with a damp cloth.

I prefer my oysters au natural but if an intense marine hit is not to your taste a little sweet and sour Chinese sauce is a great way to balance the powerful flavour.

Native Oysters with Sweet & Sour Shallots

• Finely dice 2 medium shallots. Bring a ½ cup of rice wine vinegar and a ½ cup of caster sugar to the boil. Add the shallots and cool completely. Once cool stir in some chopped coriander and spoon a little over each opened oyster. Eat immediately.

Seasonal Ingredients

Vegetables:  Wild mushrooms, Sweet corn, Tomatoes

Fruit:  Blackberries, plums, greengages, raspberries

Fish:  Eel, mussels, native oysters

Meat:  Goose, rabbit, partridge, mallard

With a bit of luck this June will be a month for barbeques and celebrations; the sun will be shinning and England will be confidently marching their way through the group stages of the world cup.

There are many delicious things to cook on the barbeque, so don’t be afraid to venture beyond burgers and chicken drumsticks. Drings do a lovely Marquez sausage, perfect with a bowl of couscous and some spicy tomato sauce. For a larger gathering you could cook a whole butterflied leg of West Country lamb. Marinade overnight with chopped rosemary, garlic, black pepper and olive oil, then grill, covered with the lid, for about 30-40 minutes, depending how you like it cooked. If you fancy some fish then mackerel and sardines are relatively cheap and in great condition right now. Make a couple of deep incisions on each side of the fish and rub with salt, chopped thyme and olive oil. Grill on both sides and serve with a lemon wedge and crisp green salad.

One dish that is sure to delight your guest is lamb Kofte kebab with couscous and grilled flatbread. Use very lean lamb to ensure the kebabs aren’t greasy and the coals don’t burst into flames during the cooking. Pounding the meat with all the flavourings will bind the kebab together, improving the texture and preventing it from collapsing during cooking.

Spiced Lamb Kofte Kebab with Couscous and Flatbread – serves 4

• Pound 1kg of lean lamb mince with 2 pinches of salt, 2 teaspoons of ground spices (cumin, coriander and fennel), the zest from 1 lemon, a grated clove of garlic, 2 finely diced (seeds removed) red chillies and a generous amount of chopped parsley, mint and coriander. Divide into 8 and form into log shapes around the skewers.
• Pour 370 ml of boiling water over 500g of couscous and rub together with your fingers (use rubber gloves to avoid burning your fingers). Rub in 50g of butter. Add lemon juice, spices, herbs and salt to suit your taste.
• For the flat bread mix 165ml of warm water with a pinch of sugar and a small lump of yeast. Sift 300g of strong flour into a large bowl, adding a pinch of salt, a tablespoon of yoghurt, a splash of olive oil and the yeasty water. Knead for 10 minutes and then cover with oiled clingfilm. Leave in a warm place to rise until double in size.
• Divide into 4 balls and roll out into thin circles. Flour & place on a plate with some greaseproof between each one. Refrigerate until needed.
• Lightly oil and season the kebabs and cook for about 4 minutes each side (or until cooked to your liking).
• Grill the flatbread on each side until lightly charred.
• Serve 2 kebabs per person with couscous, flatbread, rocket and a minty yoghurt seasoned with a little lemon juice, garlic and salt.

Seasonal Ingredients

Vegetables: Beetroot, broad beans, cauliflower, broccoli, celery, courgettes, aubergines, artichokes

Fruit: Strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, gooseberries, peaches, apricots, melons

Fish: Salmon, sea & river trout, haddock, mackerel, red mullet, prawns, sardines

Meat: New Season lamb, Guinea fowl

Asparagus is a remarkable vegetable: it’s low in calories, high in fibre, boosts the immune system, and produces chemicals that heighten sexual pleasure. No wonder it’s considered one of nature’s super foods. Lucky for us then that English asparagus is the best in the world.

The English asparagus season is very short, only lasting throughout May & June. Our cooler climate ensures a slow growth, which produces an intense flavour & delicate texture. Throughout the season I visit growers in Faversham, Kent, to buy new season asparagus for my pub, The Guildford Arms. Harvested by hand each morning the asparagus is trimmed, graded and carefully packed to avoid damaging the tender spears. This is a labour intensive operation and explains why, compared to other vegetables asparagus is relatively expensive. Fortunately you don’t have to drive to Faversham for fresh asparagus as the Creaky Shed on Royal Hill and the Blackheath farmers’ market have a good supply.

Choose asparagus that has firm, bright green stalks, without any white on the base. The tip should be tight and the spear relatively straight; a pronounced curve is a sign that it has spent a little too long out of the ground. Spankingly fresh asparagus can be eaten raw; otherwise it should be boiled or steamed for a few minutes until tender, but not soft. It is important to cook the asparagus in plenty of boiling water. This will prevent the temperature dropping significantly when you add the asparagus, ensuring it cooks quickly and retains its bright green colour and nutrients. Asparagus can also be grilled to produce a wonderful smoky aroma. When I serve asparagus I like to use simple accompaniments, such as hollandaise sauce, lemon butter or seasoned olive oil, as they don’t overpower the natural flavour.

On the piscine front, Julian at the Fishmonger on Circus Street tells me that fish are in fine form right now as most have come out of roe. Seasonal treats include brill, red mullet and some fantastic octopus.

Grilled English Asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce

• Gently melt 250g of unsalted butter. Skim off any foam from the top.
• Whisk 2 egg yolks with 1 teaspoon of water over boiling water until thick and pale.
• In a very slow trickle gradually whisk in the melted butter (don’t add the milky liquid at the bottom), adding a drop of hot water if it looks too thick. Season and add lemon juice to taste.
• Trim and peel the ends of the asparagus and blanche in boiling water for 2 minutes. Refresh in ice cold water and dry. Heat a grill pan until very hot. Oil and season asparagus and grill until nicely charred, turn and grill the other side. Serve with the hollandaise sauce.

Seasonal Ingredients

Vegetables:  Asparagus, avocados, broad beans, sprouting broccoli, spring cabbages, new season carrots,

Fruit:  Rhubarb, gooseberries (late May)

Fish:  Crab, salmon, sea & river trout, haddock, mackerel, brill, red mullet, octopus

Meat:  New Season lamb, veal

April is one of my favourite months; the daffodils are out, the evenings are brighter and spring produce has arrived in the shops and markets. We still have a few weeks to wait before the trumpets blow for English asparagus and Jersey Royals, but there is plenty to get excited over.

Drings butchers on Royal Hill are stocking wonderful new-season lamb from the West County. It is quite expensive due to high demand on the continent and the strength of the euro. Sweet, tender and full of flavour it is worth every penny though.

I like to marinade the lamb first in a paste of chopped garlic, shallot, rosemary and olive oil. Blitz them together in a food processor and rub a generous amount over the meat. Leave overnight to allow the flavour to infuse. How you cook your lamb depends greatly on the cut. A chump can be marinated with rosemary and garlic then either roasted whole or butterflied and grilled.

Slow cooking is the best way to break down tougher cuts such as shoulder. Roast at 160C for about 4 hours until the meat is falling off the bone. The belly is the most economical cut. Stuffed, rolled and roasted at 180C for a couple of hours, it’s utterly delicious; be warned though, it’s quite fatty.

The Creaky Shed, also on Royal Hill, is stocking fresh watercress; perfect to pep up a salad or make a sumptuous deep green soup.

The bitterness of watercress make if perfect foil for rich oily fish such as trout or salmon, both available from The Fishmongers on Circus Street. To ensure your salmon has a golden red crust make sure it is thoroughly dry before cooking it. Pat the surface with kitchen paper and season. Lay into a pre-heated pan and allow it a few minutes to sear on a moderate heat without disturbing it.

Seared Salmon with Watercress Sauce – serves 4

• Heat a non-stick pan, add a little olive oil and sear 4 pieces of seasoned salmon until they take on a nice colour. Turn over and complete the cooking.
• Cook a finely sliced shallot and sliced garlic clove in 40g of butter over a low heat until soft. Cover the pot so that it traps the steam – this helps it to soften without colouring.
• Throw in 100g of watercress, cover and cook until wilted. Add 200ml of boiling water (vegetable or fish stock would be even better if you have it). Simmer for 1 minute.
• Liquidise the sauce, pass through a sieve and return to the pan.
• Whisk in 100ml of crème fraiche, return to the pot to re-heat but don’t allow it to boil.
• Serve with the salmon.

Seasonal Ingredients

Vegetables
Avocado, Purple Broccoli, Carrots, Cauliflower, Courgettes, Cucumbers, Watercress, Morels

Fruit
Rhubarb

Fish
Crab, Halibut, Lemon Sole, Lobster, Mackerel, Oysters, Prawns, Salmon, Sea Trout, Whitebait

Meat
New Season lamb

Competition – Win a free meal and the chance to have your own dish on the menu at the Guildford Arms

To enter, send in your own recipe and photo and for a spring dish that includes one of the listed seasonal ingredients. The winning entry will receive a voucher for a complimentary meal at The Guildford Arms, where your dish will feature on the menu. Email entries to food@greenwich.co.uk