This month spring produce really hits its heights. Wild salmon, asparagus and Jersey Royals are the star names but there are plenty of other ingredients that are worth mentioning. Sardines are plump and fleshy right now. Brushed with garlic and rosemary oil and grilled they are fantastic served with a wedge of lemon and a simple green salad. Morels are another seasonal treat. Sautéed lightly in butter and added to a sauce they add a wonderful earthy dimension. In the vegetable patch beautiful pink radishes are starting to appear. Watercress also comes into its own; for although it is available all year round; it is in the spring when it flourishes.
Watercress is very versatile. It adds a warm bitter note to salads, peps up sauces and makes a very fine soup. The astringent kick from the leaves counteracts the rich oiliness of fish, so a watercress sauce is perfect with poached salmon. Buy watercress that has bright green leaves and crisp stalks. Avoid any with yellowy patches that has starting to wilt. This is a sure sign that its best days have passed. Wash the watercress thoroughly, shake of the excess moisture and store in an airtight plastic container or bag. It will last a few days but will gradually lose its flavour and heat.
A successful watercress soup is all about the balance of flavours and the final colour. You want the flavour and the colour of the watercress to be dominant, so there is no need to add more than onions and leeks in the way of aromatic ingredients. Don’t let them colour, or they will give the soup a brown tinge. The soups body comes from the potato. Slice the potatoes very thin; the soup will cook quicker and fewer nutrients will be destroyed. Using good stock is vital. Given the choice I would use chicken stock, as the soup will be richer with a greater depth of flavour.
To produce a vivid green soup it is important not to overcook the leaves. The best way to do this is to make a watercress puree and stir that into the soup base at the last minute. Pick the leaves and plunge into rapidly boiling water for 1 minute. Remove and refresh immediately in iced water. This will preserve the colour. Now liquidise until smooth.
Watercress soup –Serves 4
- Finely slice half an onion and 1 leek. Melt 50g of butter and gentle cook the onion & leek with a generous pinch of salt. Cover with a lid to trap the moisture and stop the onions from browning.
- Wash and remove the leaves from a 200g bunch of watercress. Roughly chop the stalks.
- When the onions are soft add a large potato, peeled & very finely sliced, and the stalks.
- Stir around and then add 750ml of vegetable or light chicken stock.
- Bring back to a gentle simmer.
- Blanche the watercress leaves in boiling water for 1 minute then refresh in iced water. Squeeze out the water and liquidise until thoroughly blended.
- Once the potatoes are soft liquidise the soup base.
- Pass through a coarse sieve to remove any lumps and return to the pot.
- Stir in the puree, check the seasoning, reheat and then serve.
Seasonal produce for May
Vegetables: Asparagus, Watercress, Spring Onion, Morel, Jersey Royals, Radishes
Fish: Sea Bass, Wild Salmon, Sardine, Crab
Meat: Lamb, Venison