April is one of my favourite months; the daffodils are out, the evenings are brighter and spring produce has arrived in the shops and markets. We still have a few weeks to wait before the trumpets blow for English asparagus and Jersey Royals, but there is plenty to get excited over.
Drings butchers on Royal Hill are stocking wonderful new-season lamb from the West County. It is quite expensive due to high demand on the continent and the strength of the euro. Sweet, tender and full of flavour it is worth every penny though.
I like to marinade the lamb first in a paste of chopped garlic, shallot, rosemary and olive oil. Blitz them together in a food processor and rub a generous amount over the meat. Leave overnight to allow the flavour to infuse. How you cook your lamb depends greatly on the cut. A chump can be marinated with rosemary and garlic then either roasted whole or butterflied and grilled.
Slow cooking is the best way to break down tougher cuts such as shoulder. Roast at 160C for about 4 hours until the meat is falling off the bone. The belly is the most economical cut. Stuffed, rolled and roasted at 180C for a couple of hours, it’s utterly delicious; be warned though, it’s quite fatty.
The Creaky Shed, also on Royal Hill, is stocking fresh watercress; perfect to pep up a salad or make a sumptuous deep green soup.
The bitterness of watercress make if perfect foil for rich oily fish such as trout or salmon, both available from The Fishmongers on Circus Street. To ensure your salmon has a golden red crust make sure it is thoroughly dry before cooking it. Pat the surface with kitchen paper and season. Lay into a pre-heated pan and allow it a few minutes to sear on a moderate heat without disturbing it.
Seared Salmon with Watercress Sauce – serves 4
- Heat a non-stick pan, add a little olive oil and sear 4 pieces of seasoned salmon until they take on a nice colour. Turn over and complete the cooking.
- Cook a finely sliced shallot and sliced garlic clove in 40g of butter over a low heat until soft. Cover the pot so that it traps the steam – this helps it to soften without colouring.
- Throw in 100g of watercress, cover and cook until wilted. Add 200ml of boiling water (vegetable or fish stock would be even better if you have it). Simmer for 1 minute.
- Liquidise the sauce, pass through a sieve and return to the pan.
- Whisk in 100ml of crème fraiche, return to the pot to re-heat but don’t allow it to boil.
- Serve with the salmon.
Davy’s Wine Merchants recommend…
The following wines are recommended to accompany Guy’s recipe and come with an exclusive discount for Greenwich.co.uk readers.
Paritua Grace Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon Hawkes Bay 2008, New Zealand 12% abv
The lovely refreshing acidity to this Hawkes Bay blend will cut through the richness of the salmon fillet leaving the lemon sorbet and nectarine elements of the wine to shine through. A subtle use of oak and fine mineral notes give this wine great structure and length. Only 200 cases of this outstanding wine were produced. Usually £16.95, Special price of £15 until Saturday 17th April 2010
Davy’s Red Burgundy ac 12.5% abv
An excellent medium bodied Pinot Noir, lovely ripe rich red fruit characters along with hints of earthiness make this a superb choice to complement this rich oily fish with its peppery sauce. Finishing with lovely long lingering flavours. Usually £9.15, Special price of £8 until Saturday 17th April 2010
And if you are cooking new-season lamb, we recommend:
L’Enclos du Château Lezongars 2002, Bordeaux 13% abv
A delicious Claret that is an absolute classic match with spring lamb. Inviting aromas of plum and cherry with a hint of spice and mint to fill the palate. Full bodied, fleshy and round in the mouth with balanced fruit and oak. Elegant and supple tannins with good acidity delivering a harmonious wine, that’s delicious to drink now.
£10.15, Special price of £8.50 until Saturday 17th April 2010
Mention Greenwich.co.uk to receive the discount on these specially selected wines. Terms & Conditions apply, special prices are not for use in conjunction with any other offer.
Davy’s Wine Merchants – 161-165 Greenwich High Road, Greenwich, London
Seasonal Ingredients
Vegetables
Avocado, Purple Broccoli, Carrots, Cauliflower, Courgettes, Cucumbers, Watercress, Morels
Fruit
Rhubarb
Fish
Crab, Halibut, Lemon Sole, Lobster, Mackerel, Oysters, Prawns, Salmon, Sea Trout, Whitebait
Meat
New Season lamb
Competition – Win a free meal and the chance to have your own dish on the menu at the Guildford Arms
To enter, send in your own recipe and photo and for a spring dish that includes one of the listed seasonal ingredients. The winning entry will receive a voucher for a complimentary meal at The Guildford Arms, where your dish will feature on the menu. Email entries to food@greenwich.co.uk
Great idea. I am going to have to remember a salmon dish from 1986 from my days as a waiter at Michaels, Santa Monica on 3rd & Wiltshire. This will blow you away Guy. http://www.michaelssantamonica.com one of the greats in the World of cooking and service!
I bougth a bottle of the Paritua Grace Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon Hawkes Bay 2008, New Zealand from Davies and oopps my girlfriend drank it last night before I got to cook my dish this evening. She said it was very good and would have gone down very well with salmon.
This is my recipe for tonights menu:
Depending on the amount of people but say for 6:
1/2 cup white wine vinegar and 1/2 cup white wine(good to use the one you are serving with the dish
1/2 cup minced shallots
1/4 cup whipping cream
12 oz butter
Salt and pepper
Reduce vinegar and wine with shallots until almost dry(do not let get brown or burn)
Add cream and boil until slightly thickened
Whip in butter in 1 oz chunks until all incorporated
Salt and black pepper to taste (can use white depending on your taste)
Some people strain out the shallots, I prefer to leave them in for texture
Depending on the set for the fish, I always top with minced chives
Good luck, we’ve been open 31 years this week in santa monica and 21 years at michael’s new york.
Chow, michael
Beurre rouge use vin rouge!
Rob will you come and take the pictures?
should have been 1/2 oz butter in the recipe..excuse me too much Paritua Grace Sauvignon Blanc!
As I was ‘The winning entry’ for Guy’s competition in April, my girls laugh because I was the only entrant!
I thought I better write up my free lunch prize today at the Guildford so hopefully Guy, the owner of the Guildford Pub will continue this splendid competition!
Great place for me as the Guildford is only a 100 yards from my front door.
The charming Piers looked after us and even Guy dragged himself out of the kitchen, a rare honour, to say hello.
Started with the excellent Tempura squid with an aromatic dipping sauce, followed by the Lamb Kofte Kebab, spiced coucous, rocket salad, flatbread, aubergine & yoghurt puree. Finshed off with the Pavlova with Vanilla whipped cream & English strawberries.
Guy is investing heavily in Greenwich with a new kitchen being built and now a beautiful terraced garden and green lawn and the start of a herb garden. I dont think i would let anyone on the grass, it looks so pretty.
Thank you very Piers & Guy for a wonderful lunch as ever. I took a break frm cooking in May, however, I am looking forward to your June column!
Kind regards, Patrick.
Thanks for the tip Patrick! Seeing that I am a Greenwich expat (coming back next month, for a short while, yeahhhh) currently in Napier Hawke’s Bay, I shall zip into my local supermarket for a bottle of this Paritua Grace Sauvignon Blanc. Thanks for the tip!!!