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Open House: Where Will You Go?

September 17, 2009 By Andrew Gilligan

LAST YEAR, attentive readers may remember, I wrote about the famous local places I'd embarrassingly never been (the Observatory, the Maritime Museum, Ranger's House, etc) and the obscure local places I'd visited instead (Severndroog Castle, Eltham Palace, etc.)

I'm afraid I still haven't made it to any more marquee-name sites (I did get to the Maritime Museum food court once - did you know they've got a branch of that nice French bakery, Paul, in there?) But this Saturday and Sunday, we are all being given that precious once-a-year chance to stock up on our "really obscure attractions" quota.

It's called Open House London; it's the one weekend when lots of fascinating places normally closed to the general public crack open the doors for a few hours; and this year Greenwich has a good stock.

Sure, you could go round some of those show-off towers in the City, or various wood-panelled enclaves in Westminster (TfL engineering works permitting) - but I think you should stay here.

Remember "Kiss me, Hardy?" That was Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy, to you - the flag captain on HMS Victory at Trafalgar, who was with Nelson as he died - and this weekend you have the very rare opportunity to visit his grave. The remains of Hardy, and that other celebrated seadog Admiral Lord Hood, are in the neo-classical Devonport Mausoleum (1749) in the grounds of Devonport House, in the town centre, which is being opened up to visitors for four and a half hours on Sunday only (11- 3.30.) That'll be first on my list.

My second stop will be at another almost-never-open, not-to-be-missed military attraction in Woolwich - the Station Officers' Mess at the Royal Artillery Barracks. That is the vast slab of Georgian frontage you see when you drive over Woolwich Common, allegedly the longest in Europe - and also the first communal mess to be used by the Army. They'll throw in the ruins of the old garrison church as well, bombed during World War II and left as a reminder.

It is particularly important to get all this done now, because Woolwich Barracks is of course shortly due to be messed about for that Olympic shooting event that no-one in the entire universe, not even the shooters themselves, actually wants. Tours on Sunday, on the hour from 10 till 3. Entry via Front Parade West Gate on Repository Road. Stand by your beds!

Then it will be on to Severndroog Castle, recently rescued by a National Lottery grant and subject of a previous column of mine. It's a high tower standing at almost the highest point in London and on both Saturday and Sunday you can, very unusually, climb to the top (10am- 3pm, entry off Castle Wood, Shooters Hill).

It is annoying that all the hours are so limited - what is the occult appeal of a 3pm closing time? If you're feeling a little bit monumented out and you want some later-than-mid-afternoon action, there is daring ultra-late-night opening (till 4.30pm) at the Greenwich Yacht Club on the Peninsula, a nice modern building over the river with good views.

If there's time, I might also make it to a couple of things in that cross-border twilight zone (Lewisham) - the 1682 Boone's Chapel on the Lee High Road, only restored last year, is open until 5pm both days, and the nearby Manor Gardens ice house and underground chambers in the park are visitable between 2 and 5.

That's my Open House day. What's yours?

Filed Under: Andrew Gilligan Tagged With: Severndroog Castle, What's On

Tower Incognita

December 2, 2008 By Andrew Gilligan

HURRAH - Severndroog Castle has been saved! What droog castle, I hear you ask? And what has a Midlands river got to do with Greenwich? Don't worry, I haven't gone all provincial on you: this Severndroog Castle is on Shooters Hill.

You go up the main road until you have to get off your bike and push. The turnoff is almost opposite one of my favourite local pubs, the Red Lion - that rarity among its now themed, gastro'd, tarted up, or plain closed-down brethren, a pub which is still what we once used to call normal.

The castle is a triangular tower, built by a Lady James in what was then her back garden as a memorial to her husband. The original Severndroog was a pirate fort on the west coast of India which Sir William James captured for the British East India Company, thus preventing the company's ships from suffering the same inconveniences as, shall we say, modern-day oil tankers off the Somali coast.

When Sir William dropped dead at his daughter's wedding, his wife decided to make sure that he lived forever on the skyline. Sixty-three feet above what is already a pretty steep hill, the tower is one of London's tallest places. Pretty hard to miss, you might think - but Lady James reckoned without Greenwich Council.

After passing into public ownership, the tower eventually ended up with the GLC - and in 1986, after that was abolished, with the London Borough of Greenwich. There'd been a public tearoom there - but the council closed it, along with the rest of the building, leaving decades of obscurity and easy pickings for vandals.

In a full-circle kind of touch which Sir William James might have appreciated, the tower was occupied for a while by the transmitting equipment of a pirate radio station. Later, in a further sign of its well-known commitment to the borough's heritage, Greenwich tried to turn the whole place over to a property developer and convert it into offices.

This week, however, the Heritage Lottery Fund has come across with more than £250,000 to reopen the tower four days a week, and once again allow Londoners to gaze over eight counties from the top-floor viewing platform.

Last week I told you about the obvious local places that everybody has been to except me - the observatory, Rangers House and so on. This week, in the second part of Confessions Of A Columnist, I will admit that I much prefer going to un-obvious places that not all that many people seem to know about. Our area is stuffed with them, and Severndroog is one.

Some of them you can even get inside. Have you ever been to Eltham Palace? It is the most extraordinary place, a suave masterpiece of Thirties ocean-liner style in the shell of a medieval building. The work of the Courtauld textile millionaires, the Russian oligarchs of their day, it exudes a smoking-jacketed opulence that makes the Candy brothers look like MFI.

Virginia Courtauld's vaulted en-suite bathroom is lined with onyx and gold mosaic, with a statue of the goddess Psyche. All the furniture is hand-made to fit precisely the proportions of the rooms. In one of those wonderfully complicated "futuristic" touches, all the rooms have connections to a central suction pipe to which the servants attached an early version of the vacuum cleaner.

Even the Courtaulds' pet lemur, Mah-Jongg, had his own heated cage, from where he would descend a special ladder to bite the chauffeurs. But perhaps the key to all the extravagance lies in a small cupboard off the pantry, which contains a pay phone for the Courtaulds' house guests. You don't get this loaded without watching the pennies.

Eltham Palace is open four days a week until December 20th - and the day I went, I had the place to myself. So although I will get round to the Maritime Museum, and the observatory, I strongly recommend everyone else gets round to some of those lesser-known favourites of mine.

Filed Under: Andrew Gilligan Tagged With: Severndroog Castle, Shooters Hill

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